Frequently Asked Questions
The Bosch ABS module below was “repaired” by one of our competitors but failed to work after reinstalling. This company advertises a lifetime warranty, yet when the customer made a warranty claim, was told their module was unrepairable. Not willing to give up, the customer found our website and sent the module to us. Despite cold solder joints, damaged protective gel, and a case that looked like it was sawed open with a chainsaw, we were able to successfully repair the module.
The cheaper guys may cost less, but sending them your module is a gamble. Save yourself time and aggravation by having ModuleMaster rebuild your module right, the first time.
This depends on the module and the vehicle. Some late-model cars may not start with the instrument cluster removed. Most ABS modules can be removed without disabling the vehicle, however if you choose to drive your vehicle without an ABS module, we recommend taking the following precautions:
- Cover the exposed surface of the hydraulic unit with aluminum foil to keep water and dirt out.
- Your brakes will work safely, just without the ABS function. Be prepared to pump your brakes manually to avoid skidding.
- Keep in mind, removal of some ABS modules will temporarily disable the speedometer.
I noticed a competitor offers a lifetime warranty. Why does ModuleMaster only offer a 5-year warranty?
Any company can offer a lifetime warranty. We offer a 5-year warranty because we can realistically honor it. If your rebuilt module should fail any time within 5 years from your purchase date, we will repair it or refund your money. Customer pays for shipping each way. Compare this to the 1-year warranty offered on new modules from the dealer.
Most modules have an in-shop turn-around time of 2 business days. If we are unusually busy, such as after a holiday weekend, please anticipate a 3-day turnaround. Bosch 5.7, Bosch 8.0, Mini Cooper Power Steering Pumps, Throttle Body modules, and most BMW Motorcycle ABS require 5 days due to the complexity of the repair. Instrument clusters usually take 3-5 business days, with the exception of Audi TT’s, which may take 5-10 days, depending on how busy we are.
- Credit Cards: We accept all major credit cards through our secure website, or by calling us at: 888-892-0764.
- PayPal: Pay using your Paypal account or credit card.
- Check or Money Order: Include a check (business checks only) with your module and a copy of your invoice when shipping to us.
- Call Me for Payment: Ship us your module without payment. We will call you for credit card info after your module has been repaired.
Shipping prices are calculated using the box size and weight, in accordance with your preferred shipping method. We ship worldwide using FedEx and USPS. Our box sizes and packing methods ensure that your item is well protected to prevent damage during return shipping.
When shipping your module from outside the U.S., the customer is responsible for any and all customs fees (incoming and outgoing). To minimize this fee, be sure to indicate “REPAIR AND RETURN” on your customs form. ** NOTE: If you want your module insured, we are happy to do so; keep in mind that you will be paying customs fees on the insured value **.
We HIGHLY recommend shipping insurance. FedEx Express has lost/damaged 2 packages just this month (August 2017) and they were not insured, they refuse to pay more than the complimentary $100.
We insure return shipments for $500 if you request that we do so. We are not responsible for any items damaged or lost in shipping that have not been insured. If you would like your item(s) insured for MORE than $500, we can do so at your request – you will need to pay for any/all additional fees incurred for this additional insurance – this amount will be calculated once you contact us to let us know how much additional insurance you want for your package. We recommend insuring your module when you ship it to us as we are not liable for modules damaged during shipping.
ModuleMaster is not responsible for unclaimed modules held longer than 30 days. This includes modules shipped to us without contact info, or customers who cannot be reached by phone or email after repeated attempts. Modules left here after 30 days may be disposed of at our discretion.
Armed with a few basic tools and our module removal/installation instructions, you’ll be surprised how easy DIY auto repairs can be.
If you prefer to have a mechanic do the work, simply let them know you want your module removed and shipped to ModuleMaster for repair. Some dealerships will argue that certain modules cannot be repaired. Unless a module has an internal memory fault, we should be able to rebuild it.
ModuleMaster rebuilds modules to exceed original factory specifications. This means we not only make the necessary repairs, we re-engineer the design flaws so that the module doesn’t fail again.
Most ABS modules and instrument clusters today use flash memory to store data specific to your vehicle. Since ModuleMaster rebuilds your original module, the data remains intact. Just plug it in and drive! ** NOTE: Some vehicles may require driving up to 50 miles after module installation to allow the vehicle and module to sync with one another before everything works.
If, however, you decide to purchase a new module from the dealer or a rebuilt core from us, programming may be necessary once the module has been reinstalled. Most repair shops and dealers will perform this service for a fee.
The most obvious indication will be the illuminated ABS, AST, or TCS light in your instrument cluster. If this light comes on intermittently, it’s usually a sign of impending failure. The sooner you get the problem repaired, the less chance there will be permanent (and costly) damage to the ABS module. Other symptoms may include vibration in the brake pedal when braking, an erratic or twitchy speedometer, random surges when using the cruise control, or increased stopping distance on gravel or ice.
In most vehicles, the ABS module or EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) is bolted directly to the hydraulic control unit (HCU)- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it.
On certain GM/GMC trucks, the entire ABS controller/hydraulic assembly is bolted to the frame rail under the cab. However, on most cars and trucks, it is located under the hood within easy reach. For exact location and removal instructions, please use our ABS Search.
My dealer informed me that I need to replace the ABS pump/manifold with the EBCM (electronic brake control module). Is this true?
The ABS pump motor generally doesn’t fail. When it does, the cause is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. If your pump motor is bad, we may be able to repair it or replace it for an additional fee. Give us a call and we’ll check our inventory.
How do I know if my ABS controller is bad, and not just something simple like a dirty wheel speed sensor?
If your ABS and/or BRAKE warning lights are on, the problem is most likely a bad ABS controller. A dirty wheel sensor will make your ABS system behave erratically, but may not cause warning lights to come on. Refer to your vehicle shop manual for instructions on cleaning the wheel speed sensors. If you’re still not sure if your controller is bad, you can have your module scanned for C-codes (NOT P-CODES) by a mechanic in order to get detailed information on the specific problem. Or if you prefer, just ship us your module and we’ll scan it for free. (NOTE: We are not able to scan/pull codes from all modules Please call BEFORE shipping your module to ensure that we can scan your particular module!) If there’s nothing wrong with it, you won’t owe anything other than return shipping.
When braking normally, my ABS comes on unexpectedly and my stopping distance is increased. Is my ABS module bad?
Not necessarily. Based on customer feedback, the problem is usually corrosion of the front wheel sensors. Try the following to cure the problem:
- Remove the front wheel sensor from the hub. Make sure both sensor and hub are absolutely clean beforehand to ensure that dirt doesn’t fall into the hub and contaminate the bearings. A single allen head bolt is all that holds the sensor in place.
- Remove the sensor and plug the hole with a paper towel or clean rag. Clean all of the rust from the sensor and its mating surface on the hub. Do the same to the hub and its mating surface to the sensor. Use a gasket scraping tool or wire brush to remove all traces of rust. Be careful to keep debris out of the hole where the sensor goes. Rust formation on the cast iron hub can push the sensor up just a few thousandths of an inch, dropping the voltage low enough to cause the ABS to engage at low speeds. This may also cause the 4WD service light (if applicable) to come on as well.
- Spray the area with carb cleaner to remove any remaining residue. Be careful not to let the cleaner flow inside of the hub, as it will dilute the bearing grease.
- Reinstall the cleaned sensor into the cleaned hub and test the system by driving. If it works normally, then spray the hub and sensor with several coats of rubberized undercoating spray to prevent any further corrosion.
A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, causing the pump motor to run continuously. When rebuilding a module, we replace not only this transistor, but all other components known to fail or otherwise cause problems.
If your ABS pump motor is running continuously, open the hood, then locate and pull the ABS fuse. This fuse will be in a fuse box labeled “Power Distribution Center” or similar, located near the battery. The 60-amp (typical) fuse should clearly be labeled “ABS”.
In most cases, no. On a few vehicles, the brake lines may hide the screw heads of the controller and require removal. You may also need to disconnect the brake lines if the screws holding the EBCM on are rusted or stripped, and need to be drilled out. This usually only happens on vehicles where the unit is located on the bottom of the vehicle such as GMC and Chevy trucks.
If it is necessary to disconnect any of the brake lines, you will need to change the brake fluid and bleed the brakes after re-installation. Since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), water molecules will tend to settle into the lowest parts of the brake system eventually causing corrosion of critical brake components. This is why brake fluid should be changed every 3 years or 30,000 miles. By doing this, you are providing a much needed service for your vehicle.
Possibly. Check our ABS Cores page for a list of modules we are currently buying along with prices paid.