In addition to rebuilding your ABS Module, we also sell refurbished ABS Module Cores that we've repaired.  We also buy ABS Modules in need of repair.  Please see this page for more details: ABS Module Cores 

Possibly. Check our ABS Cores page for a list of modules we are currently buying along with prices paid.

Please see the Business Rewards page for information on how to set this up. Once you are a verified auto business, use discount code modulemaster to receive 10% every time you shop. 

So many reasons...

• We love our techs and prefer to treat them like humans and not cheap labor.
• Modules are rebuilt as they come in and some are a lot more intense than others, thus the rebuild time frame.
• We prefer quality over quantity.
• We also love ourselves and enjoy having a life outside of work.
• We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. 

We see "previously rebuilt" items a lot. It is frustrating because what could have been a simpler rebuild by us now takes longer and has a higher chance of not working due to damage caused by prior rebuild attempts. 

Yes, we are more than willing to take a look at your item. Keep in mind that it may take longer and there may be additional costs for parts, donor modules, labor charges if the tech has to spend all day repairing damage that is not part of our rebuild, etc. We will always contact you regarding additional charges before rebuilding.  

• Cracked or Broken Connector- Any module type with a connector.
  Depending on how bad; we may be able to repair the damage here in shop using super glue, JB-Kwik, and protective sealants.
  
• Cracked or Missing Bolt Mounts- Applies to any module that mounts via bolts onto a hydraulic block, the bolts hold the module tightly in place to create a seal to prevent moisture from getting inside the module. 
  
  Cracked bolt mounts can be fixed while housings with missing bolt mount(s) will either need to be replaced or have a limited warranty.
  
• Damaged Seals- Applies to any module that mounts via bolts onto a hydraulic block; the seal prevents moisture from getting inside.
  
  Damaged Seals cannot always be fixed. This will require the housing to be replaced if we have any in stock or a limited warranty.  
• Broken or Cracked Faceplate- Applies to clusters.
  
  We have very few replacement faceplates on hand for certain clusters. The best way is to locate a donor cluster with a nice faceplate and use that.
  
• Broken PRNDL Cable- Applies to clusters and we advise detaching them before shipping to us.
  
  We are unable to repair broken PRNDL cables and we have limited replacements on hand.
  
• Cracked or Missing Tabs- Applies to any module/cluster that has tabs to hold a lid, faceplate, etc. in place.
  
  Damaged tabs do not usually affect our rebuild process. A lot of times these break when we open items, so it is really not anything to worry about. 

ModuleMaster rebuilds modules to exceed original factory specifications. This means we not only make the necessary repairs, we re-engineer the design flaws so that the module doesn’t fail again.

You absolutely cannot drive your vehicle if you have to remove both the ABS module and the brake hydraulic block. Without the hydraulic block, there is nothing connecting the master cylinder to the calipers and you will be without brakes. That is very dangerous. 

On a side note, up until the mid-2000's many vehicles could be driven without ABS modules (as long as the hydraulic block with brake lines attached is not removed). After that time, most vehicles cannot. Sometimes it will put them in Limp Home Mode, and sometimes it will activate the immobilizer. There are some exceptions, but this is general rule.

• If you can drive your vehicle without the ABS Module the following things will not work:
  Speedometer
  Odometer
  Cruise Control
  Anti-Lock Functionality
  Traction Control
  Stability Control
  
• Some Domestic and Asian vehicles might be able to be driven without the ABS Module, though Limp Home Mode is more likely. 
• Almost all European vehicles cannot be driven without ABS Modules, as it will activate the immobilizer. This may apply to the following modules: ATE MK25, MK25E, MK60, MK20, Bosch 5.3, Bosch 5.4, Bosch 5.7, MK20ei, Mercedes ATE.

ModuleMaster is not responsible for unclaimed items held longer than 30 days. This includes items shipped to us without contact info, or customers who cannot be reached by phone or email after repeated attempts. Modules/Clusters left here after 30 days may be disposed of at our discretion.

Yes! We offer a 5-year hassle free warranty that we can realistically honor. If your rebuilt module should fail any time within 5 years from your purchase date, we will repair it or refund your money. We'll even credit shipping costs up to a certain amount. Compare this to the 1-year warranty offered on new modules from the dealer, or "too good to be true offers" like a lifetime warranty that sounds good, but doesn't mean much if it's not honored.  In the end, if any issues arise, just give us a call.  We'll be happy to help best we can. For more info see our Warranty page. 

Warranty begins on the date the item is received into our system.

• Gather information on any warning lights, codes (with descriptions) pulled, and a list of issues you are having with your vehicle and CALL US at 888-892-0764 or email info@modulemaster.com.
  
  If you do not contact us first and we find nothing wrong with your module you may be responsible for shipping.
  
• If it is determined that you need to ship your item back to us under warranty, we will reimburse UP TO $30 for Instrument Clusters and UP TO $15 for all other items. You MUST include a receipt showing your shipping costs; this does not include packing material, labor, etc. We encourage you to use the box and packing material we shipped your item in.
• Make sure to include a copy of your Module Master sales receipt.
• We will evaluate the item sent into us and proceed with warranty work if the item is not deemed irreparable. 
  
  We have a limited core inventory in stock for a fee; we will call with options if your item is irreparable.
  

We will look at your module and if it requires any work you have the following options. Call us if you have questions.

• New 5 year warranty: Full rebuild cost PLUS shipping
• New 2 year warranty: Half rebuild cost PLUS shipping

With a copy of your shipping receipt we will reimburse UP TO $15 for modules, climate controls, etc. or UP TO $30 for instrument clusters. Any additional shipping costs are your responsibility. 

We rebuild modules, including those under warranty, in the order they are received.

• Like all things in life, there are no promises and nothing is guaranteed. We rebuild some modules that are over 20 years old, may have been poorly rebuilt by a competitor, been victim of a DIY YouTube video, damaged by jump starting a vehicle in reverse, extensive water damage, etc. These can all lead to a module working here but failing once reinstalled in a vehicle.
  
  While we do our best and can test some items here in house, the ultimate test is when the module is reinstalled back into the vehicle which may cause hidden problems to appear.
  
• If the module is deemed irreparable your options are either a refund or in-house credit to use on a future rebuild (for repeat customers).
• We do have a limited inventory of replacement cores for certain irreparable modules; these are available for a fee. We will contact you with options if this is the case.

• Unfortunately warranties do not transfer; to be covered under warranty you must be the original purchaser of our rebuild service.
  
• If you decide to send something in that is not covered under warranty you will be responsible for the rebuild cost plus shipping.
• If we find nothing wrong with your module, there is no charge other than return shipping. 

Please see Shipping Instructions. It's very important that you read these. We will do our best to fix damage that occurs during shipping but we cannot make any guarantees on items improperly packaged.

Yes, we do! Purchase your rebuild service like normal and you will see international shipping options during check out. If you have any questions or are ordering multiple items feel free to contact us.

Yes, there is an option in your cart at checkout to purchase shipping insurance. We HIGHLY recommend shipping insurance. Shipping carriers routinely lose/damage packages and they were not insured. They refuse to pay more than the complimentary $100.

We insure return shipments for $500 if you buy the additional shipping insurance. We are not responsible for any items damaged or lost in shipping that have not been insured. If you would like your item(s) insured for MORE than $500, we can do so at your request – you will need to pay for any/all additional fees incurred for this additional insurance – this amount will be calculated once you contact us to let us know how much additional insurance you want for your package. We recommend also insuring your module when you ship it to us as we are not liable for modules damaged during shipping. 

Since we are responsible for getting your item back to you in one piece, we prefer to use brand new boxes that are larger all around for the item being shipped plus we use special expansion foam which may add some weight. This can cause the shipping prices to be more, but provides a much better level of protection.

As a side note, we pass our commercial shipping rate discounts on to our customers. Yay!

Please include the faceplate. Module Master will not warranty the gauge needles against damage during shipping if they are not protected by the faceplate.

The most obvious indication will be the illuminated ABS, AST, or TCS light in your instrument cluster. If this light comes on intermittently, it’s usually a sign of impending failure. The sooner you get the problem repaired, the less chance there will be permanent (and costly) damage to the ABS module. Other symptoms may include vibration in the brake pedal when braking, an erratic or twitchy speedometer, random surges when using the cruise control, or increased stopping distance on gravel or ice.

In most vehicles, the ABS module or EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) is bolted directly to the hydraulic control unit (HCU)- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it.

On certain GM/GMC trucks, the entire ABS controller/hydraulic assembly is bolted to the frame rail under the cab. However, on most cars and trucks, it is located under the hood within easy reach. For exact location and removal instructions, please use our ABS Search.

The ABS pump motor generally doesn’t fail. When it does, the cause is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. If your pump motor is bad, we may be able to repair it or replace it for an additional fee. Give us a call and we’ll check our inventory.

If your ABS and/or BRAKE warning lights are on, the problem is most likely a bad ABS controller. A dirty wheel sensor will make your ABS system behave erratically, but may not cause warning lights to come on. Refer to your vehicle shop manual for instructions on cleaning the wheel speed sensors. If you’re still not sure if your controller is bad, you can have your module scanned for C-codes (NOT P-CODES) by a mechanic in order to get detailed information on the specific problem. Or if you prefer, just ship us your module and we’ll scan it for free. (NOTE: We are not able to scan/pull codes from all modules Please call BEFORE shipping your module to ensure that we can scan your particular module!) If there’s nothing wrong with it, you won’t owe anything other than return shipping.

Not necessarily. Based on customer feedback, the problem is usually corrosion of the front wheel sensors. Try the following to cure the problem:

• Remove the front wheel sensor from the hub. Make sure both sensor and hub are absolutely clean beforehand to ensure that dirt doesn’t fall into the hub and contaminate the bearings. A single allen head bolt is all that holds the sensor in place.
  
  
• Remove the sensor and plug the hole with a paper towel or clean rag. Clean all of the rust from the sensor and its mating surface on the hub. Do the same to the hub and its mating surface to the sensor. Use a gasket scraping tool or wire brush to remove all traces of rust. Be careful to keep debris out of the hole where the sensor goes. Rust formation on the cast iron hub can push the sensor up just a few thousandths of an inch, dropping the voltage low enough to cause the ABS to engage at low speeds. This may also cause the 4WD service light (if applicable) to come on as well.
  
  
• Spray the area with carb cleaner to remove any remaining residue. Be careful not to let the cleaner flow inside of the hub, as it will dilute the bearing grease.
  
  
• Reinstall the cleaned sensor into the cleaned hub and test the system by driving. If it works normally, then spray the hub and sensor with several coats of rubberized undercoating spray to prevent any further corrosion.
  

A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, causing the pump motor to run continuously. When rebuilding a module, we replace not only this transistor, but all other components known to fail or otherwise cause problems.

If your ABS pump motor is running continuously, open the hood, then locate and pull the ABS fuse. This fuse will be in a fuse box labeled “Power Distribution Center” or similar, located near the battery. The 60-amp (typical) fuse should clearly be labeled “ABS”.

In most cases, no. On a few vehicles, the brake lines may hide the screw heads of the controller and require removal. You may also need to disconnect the brake lines if the screws holding the EBCM on are rusted or stripped, and need to be drilled out. This usually only happens on vehicles where the unit is located on the bottom of the vehicle such as GMC and Chevy trucks.

If it is necessary to disconnect any of the brake lines, you will need to change the brake fluid and bleed the brakes after re-installation. Since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), water molecules will tend to settle into the lowest parts of the brake system eventually causing corrosion of critical brake components. This is why brake fluid should be changed every 3 years or 30,000 miles. By doing this, you are providing a much needed service for your vehicle.

The best way to do this is using a scan tool with a bleed procedure; it will manually activate the motor and valves several times and tell you when to bleed each caliper.

If you do not have access to a scan tool, you can bleed it manually. However, you will still likely need to activate the motor and valves to get all of the air out of the hydraulic block. To do this, you must ride the bike in a controlled area where you can safely brake hard multiple times. After activating the ABS a few times, you will need to bleed the lines again.

So the process is: initial bleed, activate ABS, then bleed again. It may take multiple tries before all of the air is out of the lines.

Generally, no. This will almost always result in a vehicle coding fault. BMW dealers do have the ability to reprogram them, but are often unwilling. Furthermore, in our experience, used modules frequently die during an attempted reprogram.

We have been told that it is sometimes possible to use a module out of the exact same year and model, but we do not believe this is reliable 100% of the time.

No. We do not perform re-programming or performance tuning of any kind for ECU(s).

No. Unfortunately we cannot fix any ECU that failed due to a programming issue, especially an aftermarket one.

We are currently unable to test Engine Control Modules. We can test some specific circuits and various components of the circuit board, but we are unable to test the entire module. 

This is caused by a dirty wheel sensor. We highly recommend cleaning replacing (preferred) the sensor.